Mirrored photo by Jose Manuel Ferrater, featuring model Luke Worrall from METAL Magazine, retouched by me
Please welcome the latest testimony of my undying love for fashion videos. Please unfold your eyes wide open, dance around the walls and feel the fondling breath of white light.
They say, at the end of a tunnel, there's always a glimmer of blaze... There's no tunnel actually, only the glare of undiscovered beauty.
"Because they are empty, therefore
They don't help neither the remembering nor the forgetting,
The words.
You will be utterly immortal and clean, when light percolates through you, Because it's even less, which remains." ~ Erika Baglyas
I'm circulating in the hectic flow of the shrewd polar wind since weeks. Time has narrowed to a smothery tight straitjacket.
The days seem to accelerate towards the end of the year. As if I had to clear all the missed, forgotten or adjourned affairs before the snake bites into its tail, and the circle closes.
I dedicate this remaining weeks of the first decade of the 2000's to the disposal of all the unrevealed, criptic treasures, that I still carry around, but can't reach the catharsis of a new beginning with them in my pockets. Purgation takes time, and patience... Soon.
An abundance of meaning may be concentrated into one picture. A whale of thoughts can be expressed by an image. The same as with a movement. By putting motion into static pictures, new perspectives open up for the viewer and for the artist as well.
With the current interlocking of fashion and movie, one of the most exciting new trends was born recently. It has evolved in front of our eyes into an entirely new media, a new form of visiual art, by creating an autonomous genre, fashion video.
I was asking one of the major and most exciting talents of the genre, about his works, his vision and the characteristics of fashion video. One of Jason Last's videos was mentioned on "The top 10 fashion videos of the season" list by The Business of Fashion lately. His works for Emanuel Ungaro and Complexgeometries are "classics" already, and his signature shaded aesthetic makes his videos easily recognizable.
Lights, camera, action...
Regards, Miska
Scenes from "119" film by Jason Last, styling and photography by Fabien Montique petrified and mirrored by Miska.
JASON LAST INTERVIEW
Miska - Tell me your story, how did you become a "fashion video artist"? Do you only create fashion-related short films, or are you interested in experimenting on other fields of motion picture as well? Jason Last - I’ve always had a very strong connection to sound and moving image, and the emotion it can carry, or the story it can tell.
Fashion film is something that has come out of my passion for video and filmmaking, as well as my love of fashion imagery. It is a combination of both things and is derived from my mind and sensibility as an artist, a director, and an image-maker. Fashion film combines the mediums with which I want to work and create: art, fashion, & cinema. It was a natural progression.
For me, it is broader than just something being directly liked to the fashion industry. It is the use of fashion imagery, clothing, models, lifestyle, that can take on a cinematic form, whether it be narrative, experimental, music video, video art, or feature film. I am very open to the blurring of lines between the labels and genres that exist in film and art. I am always interested in experimenting and trying new techniques and expressions related to film and video.
"Skyburial", film by Jason Last, art direction by Jaime Rubiano
- What do you think about the growing spread of fashion videos? Do you think, that video is the future form of fashion editorials?
It’s really exciting. What an effective and beautiful way to present clothing and create fashion images. Moving images allow an audience to somehow interact with the pieces and to understand a brand or an editorial as not only image, but also sound, and dialogue, and narrative. It extends the emotional connection one can have with images. I think fashion videos have, and will continue to have, a strong presence in editorials online, etc for sure. But yes, it is the future.
- Do you imagine static images or movements while working?
I’m always thinking of how I can push the images I am working with and the potential that exists within video. When I am planning a shoot or coming up with an idea, it moves. That relates to the choices I make of models, clothing, etc… I’m always thinking in moving image.
"When You're a Star", film by Jason Last, art direction by Jaime Rubiano
- What are the unwritten rules of making fashion video? (Supposing there are...) What are the dedicated special ingredients of the genre?
What’s so exciting about fashion images, is that there aren’t many rules or limitations. I suppose there are trends to think about, but what I believe makes fashion interesting as an art & an industry, is that it is always changing and quite open to being pushed in different directions. Fashion welcomes a fresh and ever-changing perspective and art plays a big role in influencing that. The possibilities are kind of endless.
- As we know, fashion editorials are usually retouched before coming out in print. How much post-production is usually required to complete a video?
A lot. It varies between films, and what kind of campaign it may be, but a lot. The same rules apply to video as to photo, depending on what the desired aesthetic is. The thing about video post-production is that there are endless options, so that can mean a lot of work…
- What are your characteristics, the unique features of your works? How is the signature "Jason Last vision"?
What’s unique about my work and my vision is my perspective. I come from a fine arts, video and film background, but I am very excited and moved by fashion imagery and the depth of it’s particular history, so my work has been informed by many sources and they all meet in the video work I make.
- How is the work with models? Are they difficult to instruct for motion picture? Or there’s no difference?
It depends. But there is definitely a difference… I’ve been lucky to work with some amazing models who understand their movements and bodies, and who follow direction very well. There is an element of acting involved in modeling, even if they never speak, and any good model understands this. I’m careful with who I work… but for the most part I’ve worked with great subjects who understand and take direction well.
- Which was your favourite, or most exciting project so far? What kind of projects do you work on currently?
The AW09 Emanuel Ungaro films were a lot of fun and a great project to be a part of. I’m working on several projects and fashion films at the moment (and always…). Also collaborations with brilliant art directors & stylists like Jaime Rubiano and Fabien Montique. Experimenting with ways to take the darkness and dramatic nature of my films to the next level.
- If you suddenly supposed to tell a memorable movie scene, what would you say?
Derek Jarman’s The Last of England… simply brilliant... from narrative to imagery.
Maya Deren comes to mind: “Meshes of the Afternoon”.
Or Godard’s Le Mépris, Bardot in the garden in blue. Stunning with that hair, those eyes and that attitude…
Or the scene from Clueless where she goes for her driving test…
- Who are your professional role models in terms of fashion, visual arts and cinema?
Too many to name…. I live for this. And I am continuously moved and influenced everyday by the lives, the stories, and the work of so much brilliance I can only aspire to.
- What are your plans for the future?
Work. And continue to grow and be present within the fashion film genre. It’s the future.
Please, do not copy or quote parts of the interview without permission!
As I dig deeper and deeper in the dense mass of fall's menswear editorials, I feel condensing boredom, when any of the studded Prada pieces lodge into my eyes on every second picture. However, I don't dispute that the above-mentioned numbers are undoubtedly the "heavyweight editorial champions" of this autumn, those pins only stab my hunger for the excitement of diversity already.
Enough cawing, the situation is not hopeless at all. Just add a bit of movement, dramatic edge, and Ash Stymest to the monochrome styling and the result will be rather more fascinating than the slowly rusting leaves and nails.
"Tonight the stars hang vividly..." Motion editorial featuring Ash Stymest for Metal #17 Issue by Antonina Obrado / Ferrater Studio.
The '09 collection of Julia Kim was inspired by urbanism and aerial photography, so was Bart Kiggen, who created a short movie to accompany the presentation.
In keywords: vestment-like outfits, razor sharp structures, irresistible details; with this collection the promising designer from Antwerp reiterated, and even outshone her previous ones. Broad perspectives, unearthly calmness and motionless gestures, planes, windmills and the Milky Way as regard Bart Kiggels's interpretation. Typical instance of a well-thought-out cooperation, impressive.
Here, you can find a previously published interview I made with Julia Kim about her preceding collection.
He presented my favourite collection for the next spring/summer season in Paris. He created a smoking new look in menswear.
His designs make me wonder every time I see them. He is Damir Doma.
I don't talk to the wind, see videos of the whole collection and backstage below. My review about the collection, can be found here.
In addition to the motion pictures, also read the official press release of the collection. I have to admit, nor could I conceive my thoughts better.
"Between spirituality and philosophy, Doma explores the delicate balance of humanforms and harmonizes the ongoing dialogue between body and soul.
Oversized and almost floating elements are meant to provide space between skin andgarment representing a new spiritual freedom allowing the mind to focus on life’selemental values.
With an understanding of humility and purity, Doma eliminates the unnecessary andconcentrates on the essentials of shapes and forms resulting in a heightened appreciationfor simplicity. No buttons or unnecessary trimmings were added to thegarments to maintain its integrity and mutual respect for the individual and nature.
Our relationship to nature and the things that permit our existence, is spoken throughthe colors, with white symbolizing purity, red the energy that rushes through our veinsand black’s thoughtfulness, the beginning, the end and what is still yet to be discovered.
Doma’s quest to fuse mind, body and spirit, stands as a trinity with fabrics, colors andshades as its loyal disciples."
Some of the top trends from the spring/summer '10 menswear runways seem to emerge in this short film (directed by Mariano Vivanco, styled by Robbie Spencer, featuring model Marlon Teixeira) to present the new collection of London based brand, Qasimi, entitled "Higher State".
The sensual adaptation of reworked traditional male garments by Qasimi, are expressing examples of a new tendency in men's fashion.
Transparency, organza and chiffon, airy drapes fused with tight cuts, gladiators, a touch of exotic inspiration, this time from the deserts. Characteristics of an interesting new look, which we've seen on many runways in the past few weeks. Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy or John Galliano also created their own variations on the theme, which might rule men's fashion next summer.
It's getting to become a tradition of Stefano Pilati to sum up his recent mood about the upcoming collections for Yves Saint Laurent in short films before the presentations. This year French director, Samuel Benchetrit has written and directed an 8-minutes long black&white adaptation of Pilati's inspiration behind the collection. The film doesn't reflect directly on Pilati's designs, it's an impression of YSL's frame of mood for the next spring/summer season with subtle referencies to the character of the collection.
photo from And Men Magazine October 2009 Issue by Katariina Wilson
Mission failed, nothing definitive, just a little transient pain. Like a sobering slap, which points to the fact that the life I live is not a fantasy. This is the necessary evil, which appeares twice a year, in the shape of the exam-period.
Anyways, I decided to get back on the track. I'm just not able to stay away anymore, sit tight silently, make no progress while there's so many interesting and attention-worthy news these days to report about. I can't keep my thoughts to myself, I was silent for too long, and hope there are some who have a need for my words.
All the graduate collections from fashion schools all over the world, with unknown talents to discover, the spring/summer 2010 menswear shows are just around the corner at the end of the month, not mentioning some ongoing own projects... The long and short of it, Miska continues his journey, be prepared!
For now as a little appetizer here is a short video of Irina Shaposhnikova's '09 master collection (Antwerp Academie) filmed by Pierre Debusschere. Bon appétit!
I got whirled by the cool breeze on this unusally dark and cold night. These are the first minutes of June, summer is on the corner.
Maybe this is the last time for a while to enjoy having goose-bumps during smoking a cigarette on my balcony.
Maybe not, but Complexgeomteries' Fall '09 video gave me the same feeling. The plaited fabrics look just like they are waiting for getting cought by the wind. Simple, airy silhouettes, monochromatic shades, and signature complex geometries.
The video is created by Jason Last, entitled "...between good and evil".
I've never thought, that cell proliferation can be represented in a way, which is as impressive as in this video. Not mentioning the series of pleasant visual ideas in this three-minute mood.
Simple and sophisticated. Forget? No, I rather keep these images in my memory.
Music Video for "Vania And The Master", created by Vania Oliveira, Moritz Reichartz and Michael Fragstein at "Büro Achter April".
To start this week in good mood, here is a great morning-song, "CookieMachine" from French PacoVolume. I could hardly list lots of muic videos with so much visual creativity like this one. There's at least one great idea in every 10 seconds of it!
I haven't slept for a while. My mind is crowded. I'm waiting for dreams, to attack my eyes. Inspiration is waking. I keep a close watch over it.
An adaptation of Franz Kafka's short novel, "The Hunger Artist", following the cinematic artist that refuses to sleep.
Writing, cinematography and editing by Jacob Mendel. Acting by Jason Sudak. Narrating by Jason Prasad. Music by Miles Davis, Wayne Shorter and Chick Corea.