Qasimi's Higher State S/S '10 Film

Some of the top trends from the spring/summer '10 menswear runways seem to emerge in this short film (directed by Mariano Vivanco, styled by Robbie Spencer, featuring model Marlon Teixeira) to present the new collection of London based brand, Qasimi, entitled "Higher State".

The sensual adaptation of reworked traditional male garments by Qasimi, are expressing examples of a new tendency in men's fashion.

Transparency, organza and chiffon, airy drapes fused with tight cuts, gladiators, a touch of exotic inspiration, this time from the deserts. Characteristics of an interesting new look, which we've seen on many runways in the past few weeks. Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy or John Galliano also created their own variations on the theme, which might rule men's fashion next summer.

Regards, Miska

Damir Doma S/S '10

Some will say it's the same, I say it's evolving. Damir Doma's new collection is undoubtedly similar to the previous ones, but his aesthetic world and signature style is so variable, that it has enough opportunities hold for lots of more seasons, without being repetitive or outmoded.

For the recent collection he apparently toned down the excessive draping, which is so characteristic of him, but kept his complex-defined silhouettes, with more structure and volume, than ever before.

The highlights of the collection were the every inch blood-red outfits, which indicated completely new perspectives in the style of Damir Doma.

Like there are so many ways to rumple, ravel or pucker a veil, there are as many possibilities to ring the changes on Damir Doma's pieces. And as we can see, this is exactly what he does.

Until the official runway photos and video appear online, I feature images from Scoute.org.

Regards, Miska

YSL S/S '10 Film by Samuel Benchetrit

It's getting to become a tradition of Stefano Pilati to sum up his recent mood about the upcoming collections for Yves Saint Laurent in short films before the presentations. This year French director, Samuel Benchetrit has written and directed an 8-minutes long black&white adaptation of Pilati's inspiration behind the collection. The film doesn't reflect directly on Pilati's designs, it's an impression of YSL's frame of mood for the next spring/summer season with subtle referencies to the character of the collection.

Regards, Miska

Rick Owens Men S/S '10

Although I didn't find his new collection as impressive, as the previous one, Rick Owens is still Rick Owens.

The jackets are still razorsharp, the shapes are still geometrical, the attitude is still powerful, the execution is still outstanding and still mostly black.

What changed then? I feel this recent collection more "casual" (if I can use this word in the case of Mr. Owens' creations), the whole feels less ethereal, and more cyber-streetstyle, more ready-to-wear. The use of denim for patchwork and the twisted sneaker-boots seems like a bizarre tribute to the basic pieces of today's casual look.

Original photos from SHOWstudio, the ones featured here are retouched by me.

I think though, there's a lot of humour and self-irony in this collection, which might look a little too massive in head-to-toe outfits, but the individual pieces are "easier" than ever. The point is in the right proportions and in the hidden details, as always.

Regards, Miska

Hugo by Hugo Boss Men S/S '10 RTW

The first collection, which grabbed my attention during the spring/summer 2010 mens fashion weeks, was Hugo by Hugo Boss designed by Bruno Pieters. I have to admit, that it was truly unexpected for me to see such an inspirational presentation from Hugo Boss. I always thought they are the German Calvin Klein, high-quality, cold and a little bit boring, but always safe. Perhaps it will be necessary to consider my point of view about Hugo.

Bruno Pieters used classic lines as a basic for the collection. Clean-cut silhouettes and explicit lines ruled the outfits. Minimalism in its best form. The color-palette presents the tints of the sky from dawn to sunset. As inspiration, the seascape photography of Wolfgang Uhlig was named, his style is reflected through the sharp boundaries and simple shapes of the collection. The result is a unique, chic menswear-line, which pays tribute to the past values but uses the modern elements efforlessly at the same time.

Perhaps not revolutionary but undoubtedly exciting what we've seen on Hugo's runway, I expect similar pleasant surprises from Paris this week.

I'm experimenting with the runway photos. I'd like to create an individual and eye-catching visual style for my runway reviews, which also fits in the image of the blog. The pictures above are retouched by me, the original ones can be found at WWD.com.

Regards, Miska

Martyn Bal A/W '09

After his impeccable collection for the spring/summer season, what would we expect from Martyn Bal for the upcoming fall? Elegant, sophisticated, well-tailored pieces for the cold season. And there's no doubt already, he does not disappoint us!

This collection shows more strength after the romantic-touch of spring. The outerwear is something outstandingly chic. Classic, clean, masculine. The shapes are very well-structured, carefully detailed, and all the pieces look really comfortable and fit for any occasion.

From now on, I won't lust after a dear-old Burberry coat only. If it is about elegance, Martyn Bal is an infallible choice!

photos: Martyn Bal A/W '09 Lookbook

Regards, Miska

Graphic Editorials

For today, I collected three interesting menswear editorials, one from Dazed&Confused (I don't know which issue, but I think it has the longest title ever), and the other two are from the recent AnOther Man magazine.

The common characteristic in these three editorials is the graphic touch. The use of cut-out and montage techniques resulted in unusual but very fascinating photos.

IN THE DARKNESS OF A BERLIN ATTIC, A BOY IS ALONE IN A WORLD, WHERE FLESH AND FABRIC BECOME ONE...

Photography Jan Von Holleben

Styling Robbie Spencer

Artwork Sergei Sviatchenko
Model Lasse Pedersen

photos: Dazed&Confused

ANOTHER MAN MAGAZINE SS'09

Photography Solve Sundsbo
Styling Nicola Formichetti

photos: Nicola Formichetti's blog

ANOTHER MAN MAGAZINE SS'09

Photography Hedi Slimane
Styling Alister Mackie

photos: AnOther Magazine

Regards, Miska